Progression of the cupped corset

So, there has been some progression on the cupped corset.  I have made the pattern and the first toile!  Hoorah hooray!

Firstly I drafted a bodice block using my measurements, with no ease.  I then made the adjustments for a a basic strapless bodice (I will post these adjustments soon) and adjusted the waist for a 5 cm cinch.  I also made sure the of the rib measurement so there is plenty of support for the bust – if its super fitted around the rib, just under the bust, then the bust will sit higher.

I then put in the design lines for the corset and drafted the pattern.  I usually do a 1.5cm seam allowance for corsets, so I can use the seam allowances as a boning channel, this is probably a bit cheaty and for a single layer corset not appropriate but I will do this for the fitting.  However, I forgot to do 1.5cm seam allowance which turned out to be a bit of a pain as I had to add it in later.

corset with cups draft 1

I then sewed up the first toile for fitting and the bra cup itself was soooo small.  So I decided to draft the cup from scratch using Mark Garbarczyk method found on the Foundations Revealed website.

bra cup draft

I unpicked the cup from the first toile and stitched this one in and it had a much better fit.  I made some slight adjustments and added design lines and it came up pretty good I wreckon.

First toile with 2nd cup

I also decided to add length at the top of the corset from the underarm to centre back, and lifted the cradle for the cup 1.5cm’s.  I’m hoping that this will give the bust more support.

toile 2 pattern

I will make another toile to check all these changes before I get carried away.

Now I need to find somewhere that sells heavy duty molded cups that I can fit to the corset (and that will hold me up!).  I have checked the usual places but there was no joy.  So I’ll be looking online.

I will leave you with this gorgeous fabric design I found on Spoonflower by Neryl:

Showgirls design by Neryl, found on Spoonflower

Showgirls design by Neryl, found on Spoonflower

Doesn’t it make you smile!