Examples of my current dilemma from Versatile Corsets
Overbust with cups? or Underbust with separate bra
I have become obsessed with creating a corset with cups that will give support but also create shape. I would love a corset I can wear under dresses to assist in achieving that nipped in waist and smooth silhouette, not to mention relieve some pressure from my shoulders. From my research I have discovered the following:
1. The design will need a high back, the lowest it could be is probably at the current bra back level.
2. If I want to wear it under dresses, my best option is for a single layer corset.
Unfortunately my research has left me with more questions than answers so far:
1. do I put in foam cups or bone the cup?
2. do I put in a front busk or not?
3. do I use powernet and a hook and eye closure (which means its not really a corset) or lace up the back?
4. Do I go for a waist cincher and separate bra? – I’ve read that this combo is best for under dresses as it allows your breasts to have ‘natural’ and separate movement to the bodice.
So I’ve got some work to do. If there is anyone out there reading this that has some input I would much appreciate it. I thought I’d start with a corset with cups and work from there. If I make a basic corset block and fit it to me, I can draft the cups and a bra separately and a waist cincher from the original corset block. I have made corsets in the past using a variation of a pattern I purchased through Farthingales . BUT, this time I want to draft my own pattern, using a basic bodice block to my measurements without ease.
Then I will adjust the pattern to a corset fit and fit it to me. I will also draft a bra using the free instructions provided by Mark Garbarczyk through Foundations Revealed. I’m hoping that the cup drafted for the bra will be able to be inserted into the corset.
So I’m hoping that at the end of this process I will have a garment I can wear under dresses that will be supportive, create shape and dare I say at lease a little comfortable. I guess I need to work out if I want shape wear or a corset.
This will also work well with my sarong dress dreaming. Oh joy! I will leave you with this link to Lucy’s Corsetry – a fabulous site, where Corsets are reviewed for fit and structure.